Blasé

Landscape changed for good: After walking for weeks in the Meseta planes, I crossed a first mountain range to arrive in the lush valleys of El Bierzo. Near to the Atlantic ocean, seafood here is excellent, as well as its DOC wine (both red/white) mainly Mencia/ Godello grapes, very rich in flavor... In fact, I am sipping a glass whilst writing this, so sorry for spelling! At the beginning of the last century there was an internationally imposed ban on these grapes and production therefore only for local use. Nowadays, I would say Spaniards rank these wines above Rioja, reason why El Bierzo wines nowadays are for connoisseurs only.

The problem when traveling for so long through such historic places, one tends to get a bid blasé: What, a V century roman bridge to cross? Do I really need to stop at this XIII chapel? Another medieval church? Another baroque cathedral? All stones after all.... Still, Ponferada with its Templar castle at the river Sil, is well worth a picture (and a visit). I went out until 3am, bars full of local people (remember most of my co-pilgrims have to be at their hostel before 10 pm!) very chatty, in fact the most happening city so far... maybe because first of May is a bank holiday: Labour day!

Hence, I woke up late and was the last pilgrim on the Way: In fact, for the first time I arrived to Villafranca del Bierzo and the first three hostels I entered where all booked out!

 

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